Sites And Sights Of Rome
A Visitor's Guide
No self-respecting tourist would visit Rome without a peek at the Colosseum and St Peter's basilica but, for the those who want to dig a little deeper, there is plenty more to see and do. Many of Ancient Rome's sites lie within a stone's throw of that famous gladiatorial arena – look out for money-saving combined entrance tickets for several sites. The Roman Forum, still a live archaeological site, was the political heart of the Republic and the Empire until 400AD. After you've walked through the streets of ancient Rome and stood on the Senate's original marble floor, climb the Palatine hill, an unmissable lookout point, once home to the elite. On the other side is Circo Massimo, once the premier chariot-racing stadium with a capacity for 250,000 ancient Romans, but now a grassy basin, pleasant nonetheless for summer picnics and evening concerts.
Once you've seen the obligatory thermal baths of Caracalla (used for bathing and frolicking by up to 8,000 ancient Romans per day until the complex was desecrated by the Visigoths in the sixth century), there are several other intriguing stop-offs in that part of Rome. The Basilica di San Clemente is an archaeologist's Matryoshka doll: the 12th century church is built on top of a fourth century basilica, which in turn is built over a pagan temple from 200AD and a Roman house from 100AD. Visitors can explore the layers of history, including an ancient Roman street and underground river. The Pyramid of Cestius, dating back to 12BC is about a kilometre south of Circo Massimo – it's an eye-catching and well preserved tomb, but the interior is not open to the public.
Appia Antica
A second area of Rome also has several must-see sites. Rome boasts up to 60 catacombs and two of the most impressive are San Sebastiano and San Callisto on the Appia Antica, the ancient road still visible in its original form at some parts. This area can be explored leisurely: hire a bike or walk through Parco della Caffarella. Don't miss the Arch of Drusus, part of a decorative ancient acqueduct, or ancient hippodrome Circo di Massenzio. The fascinating ruins of Villa dei Quintili are also worth a look. This once-grandiose home was built in the second century AD by two brothers who were eventually killed by the Emperor Commodus, who then took over the villa.
With such a wealth of interest outdoors, it would be easy to neglect Rome's fantastic array of museums, which include the Capitoline Museum, the Palatine Museum and the four National Museums of Rome (Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Altemps, Baths of Diocletion near Termini station and Palazzo Massimo alle Terme). In addition to these, Villa Giulia houses impressive Etruscan artefacts and the Ara Pacis is the most unmissable of all – the Augustan altar is among the best-preserved of ancient Roman relics.
Further Afield
Put time aside for a few day-trips outside the city. Ostia Antica, 25 km west of the centre, is Rome's ancient port dating back to 1400BC. Much of it is still standing, including the wonderfully intact mosaics and the communal marble latrines. To the east of Rome, Tivoli is a medieval hill-top town and is home to Villa Adriana, a complex of classical buildings built by Hadrian in the second century AD. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, it makes Tivoli a must-see, but while you're there pop into Villa d'Este, whose famous fountains and gardens offer some welcome shade on hot days and also provide a backdrop to classical music concerts in summer months.
Northwest of Rome is the sleepy hillside town of Cerveteri – it's worth the journey to see the Etruscan tombs dating back to the ninth century BC. The city-like complex of burial chambers, some carved and painted, is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. After an afternoon tramping around ancient ruins, head to Ladispoli for a beach-side cocktail or drive up into the hills to visit the castle and lake at nearby Bracciano. Try dinner at the medieval hill-top village of Ceri, famous for several excellent restaurants including La Sora Lella .
Nightlife
The pedestrianised Trastevere area has more trattorias and bars than any tourist could shake a stick at and also offers plenty of ivy-covered hotels. But if you're looking for something quieter try taking a cab up to Gianicolo, one of Rome's seven hills. Book a table at one of the classy restaurants (try Il Cortile on via Alberto Mario) then walk over to the Belvedere to see Rome by night. Alternatively walk over to the Jewish quarter (il Ghetto), where Jerusalem artichokes are a popular kosher choice on the menus, and take a look at Teatro di Marcello. Conceived by Julius Caesar, it is the prime attraction of a newly-opened archaeological site. Don't go to bed before sampling some of Rome's famous jazz (try Big Mama in Trastevere or the Casa del Jazz near Caracalla).
Getting there
Rome's main international airport is Fiumicino, connected by the Leonardo express straight to Termini station or a 50 euro taxi ride. The city's second airport, Ciampino, serves the budget airlines and is a 30-minute coach ride from Termini station.
Car rental is available at both airports, but driving in congested, chaotic Rome is not recommended. For one thing, you might miss something.
Images by Harry Breugom. All rights reserved.
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