Interview: Marika Vicziany on her Quest to Save Kashgar's Historic Sites

In 2003, Professor Marika Vicziany, director of the Monash University Asia Institute in Australia, and director also of the National Centre For South Asian Studies, pioneered a groundbreaking project to record and preserve Kashgar's little documented heritage sites. 

A key goal of the project was to write and release a book about the region's people and their cultural heritage. It was hoped the book would encourage and promote tourism to the area, thus boosting cultural awareness, the local economy and infrastrusture.

That book, Kashgar: Oasis City on China's Old Silk Road, has now been released in the West, with Chinese editions to follow. It carries essays by the academics George Michell and Yen Hu Tsui, as well as by Professor Vicziany; it features photographs by John Gollings.

We earlier spoke to John Gollings about his work documenting Kashgar for the book, and we will be revealing more about the team's plans to create a virtual reconstruction of the site soon.

Kashgar is a region and a city in China's remote Xinjiang province. For thousands of years it has been at the crossroads of East and West, a critical point on Silk Road road trading routes and home to one of the world's most famous, largest and most vibrant markets.

The region is also home to hundreds of ancient sites – many of them hidden beneath the sands of the desert. Nearly all of them are in urgent need of proper documentation and excavation by archaeologists. Without this, thousands of years of history is at risk of disappearing forever.

But that's only part of the story. In this exclusive interview with Heritage-Key, Professor Vicziany discusses Monash's Kashgar Project, and tells us about its beginnings, her team's achievements so far, and their ambitious, long-term commitment to securing and preserving Kashgar's cultural heritage for future generations.

HK: Most people know very little about Kashgar. Can you explain why the region is so important from an archaeological and historical perspective?

MV: Kashgar used to be called the 'pivot of Asia' in the 19th century, because it was – and it still is today. Many of the ideas, philosophies, migrants, traders, music and commodities that came to China from the west came via Kashgar. Invaders also came and warriors, men of fortune and seekers of power.

So in the late 19th century, Kahsgar was the focus of the 'great game' between Russia, Britain and China in their search for regional dominance over this vital crossroads. For centuries before 1800, Kashgar had been the great trading city of the lower parts of the Silk Road that linked the capital of China, Xian, to Rome.

Today the trading importance of Kashgar has been revived by the Chinese government. Cross border trade is again encouraged and Ugyur merchants have even moved into neighbouring countries and established markets and businesses. It is Kashgar as a crossroad that explains its syncretic history and current cultures.

HK: Your project at the Monash Asia Institute seeks to highlight and promote the cultural heritage of the region. Can you tell us how the project came about?

MV: The project was established by me after I returned from my first visit to Xinjiang in 2001. I was a member of a Monash economics team that won a significant research consultancy from the Asian Development Bank/State Council of China to report on China's 2020 'Go West Development' strategy. Our job was to assess that strategy and come up with policy options. My own specific tasks were to write the chapters on poverty, minorities and women. I fell in love with Xinjiang on the basis of fieldwork in Urumuqi and Aksu.

During that first trip, I collected a lot of Chinese documents that needed translation, so on my return I looked for a research assistant in Melbourne who could help me. That person was Ayxe Eli, who was undertaking a doctorate on Kashgar at that time. She encouraged me to meet Professor Yen Hu Tsui, her teacher in Urumuqi, and to visit Kashgar, which I did in 2002.

My life changed greatly as a result of that visit. Professor Tsui had been taking an interest in the history of Kashgar, and it rubbed off on me. Very quickly I put together a large research team and we all began to read about the history of the region. In 2003, I visited Kashgar again with my husband and decided that it was time to invite architectural and archaeological specialists to assess the significance of the historical sites of Kashgar.

I turned to George Michell whom I had known and admired for his fabulous work on Vijayanagara in India. George said he would come to Kashgar but that we should persuade John Gollings to come too and take photographs. George's work on Vijayanagara was an inspiration – over many decades, international scholars had joined him in mapping the archaeological importance of that Hindu city. Something similar was needed in Kashgar – like Vijayanagara, it had been ignored in recent times. I was encouraged too by the work of Professor John Olsen at the University of Arizona. He had established an international team to search for early man in China, Russia and Mongolia, so through George and John Olsen, I found workable models for Kashgar.

HK: Your original ambition was to “document, measure and define the most significant cultural monuments and spaces of Kashgar”. Were you surprised by the wealth of heritage in the region?

MV: Yes we were very surprised – especially because, like Vijayanagara, Kashgar was the site of frequent wars and contests for power and control over the centuries, so much had been destroyed but so much had also been rebuilt. But unlike Vijayangara, Kashgar was a living city – the key cultural monuments continue to play a role in the life of ordinary citizens. These monuments and spaces are not isolated archaeological sites. The meaning of the monuments is also largely known to the local Ugyur residents, even if some of their historical importance has been lost. We discovered that much could be learnt about the history and cultural of the region through the mazars or Muslim cemeteries. Again, most of these continue to be used. The surrounding and encroaching desert is also important. Beneath the sands lie many more monuments – probably early Buddhist cities. When the sands blow in the right direction, these cities are revealed only to be covered up again when the sands blow in the opposite direction. Systematic survey of these sites would be well worthwhile.

The great heritage value of the Kashgar region lies in its syncrectic cultural heritage – here there is evidence of Zoroarastrian, Buddhist, Nestorian, Manichaen, Islamic, Shamanist, Christian and many other beliefs and philosophies.

HK: What are some of the significant archaeological sites?

MV: The early Buddhist sites are very important and should be listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The remaining stupas of Kashgar are probably the oldest in central Asia, dating from about 200CE to 400CE. The early Islamic sites are vital – Kashgaria was the home of Mahmud of Kashgari, a 11th century scholar who travelled between Kashgar and Baghdad and wrote the first Turkish dictionary.  Kashgaria might also be the site of the earliest pottery and metal tools of central Asia.

The Buddhist monuments are in desperate need of conservation. Much has already been lost. One site we visited had been referred to by Sir Aurel Stein as the “pigeon house” – it was some kind of Buddhist shrine. The local municipality had erected a protective concrete shield stating its importance, but it was not very effective because the local farmers persuaded the municipal government to give back this land for agricultural purposes. We visited a site denuded of any Buddhist structure – only the concrete sign remained.

HK: Few of the archaeological sites in Kashgar have been excavated and some have barely been documented – what sort of timeframe are we be looking at to ensure the region is properly investigated?

MV: It is hard to say –  the known sites would probably require an investment of 20 years’ research and documentation. The buried cities in the sand will take much longer.  George Michell and his team have taken more than 20 years to document Vijayanagara – that is a good indication of what it might take.

The biggest challenge we have is time – recording and protecting these sites before they are overtaken by development. We need to work in a speedy and focused way, but that is not always possible given that we have an international team that can only travel to the region for a couple of months a year. Yet we must persist. Hopefully, Chinese and Uygur (or Uighur) archaeologists and historians will take a growing interest – the future dynamism of the project depends on them.

HK: Many of the sites have been poorly protected by governments and have – until now – been largely ignored by researchers. What is needed to change this situation?

MV: The protection of local monuments and sacred spaces must come from the people themselves, so the best way of achieving the desired outcome is to demonstrate (a) the cultural importance of the sites via education and (b) use special training to bring modest volumes of tourists to these areas. Kashgar is a poor region despite growing international and domestic trade. Employment is badly needed, and employment diversification for minorities in particular is important.

Our project includes bringing about changes in both of these directions, namely education and tourism. Hence we have the support of the Xinjiang Tourism Department.

We have also developed animations to show what Kahsgar might have looked like during its historical heyday in about 400CE – these animations can be seen on our website. We persuaded Tom Chandler, our talented IT specialist, to develop animations as a way of appealing to the imagination of local people. When residents look at some of these sites, they might only see a collection of mud bricks - using animated reconstructions based on John Gollings' photographs, we hope to change local attitudes.

HK: Does the complex history of the region complicate research work?

MV: Yes, the research work is complex, but this is not a problem. In our team we have language specialists, archaeologists, historians, anthropologists, specialists on most of the relevant religions. It is the complexity itself that is compelling and this motivates us.

HK: The project’s terms of reference define Kasghar as not only the city area, but the “greater region”. Has the number of jurisdictions involved made the process difficult?

MV: Not at the moment because we are still focusing on the city of Kashgar and then the wider Kashgar prefecture. That is keeping us very busy, so we are not confronting any of these wider regional issues.

HK: How difficult has moving this project forward been in light of the political situation in the region?

MV: Our research in Xinjiang proceeds with the permission of the Chinese government and the government of Xinjiang. Getting their support has not been an obstacle and until now, all our requests have met with their approval. The only serious obstacle has been the lack of research funding. The Monash Asia Institute invested seed money in the Kashgar project and we are now looking for substantial donors to complete the six monographs that was have promised. I am now setting up a Kashgar Advisory Group hoping that this will enable us to find the research funds that the project badly needs.

HK: Kashgar has always attracted travellers – one section in the book carries reports from visitors as diverse as Marco Polo and Robert Shaw. What needs to be done to encourage more modern-day tourists?

In Australia, we have had some success in the management of our national parks by training indigenous people to deal with the tourists and local residents – they can provide that critical cultural bridge. From such a basis, social cohesion can be promoted. Other developments can follow more organically if we tackle this basic issue.

HK: Travel publisher Bradt has released a guide to travelling the Silk Road routes. Among adventure travellers, I can see the Silk Road becoming an overland tourist route to rival the Trans-Siberian – what are your thoughts on this?

MV: I agree. This overland Silk Road via Kashgar has a much longer pedigree than the Trans-Siberian route. In fact, many French and Italian tourists do come to Xinjiang via the southern/western route into Kashgar, but the problem is that they only spend about a day and a half in Kashgar before rushing off to the northern towns of Turpan and on to Gansu. Through our work, we hope that tourists will appreciate the complexity of Kashgar itself and stay for five days rather than a day and a half. Such longer visits are fully justified and would increase income from tourism three times without having a negative impact on the environment by bringing in a massive influx of tourists.

HK: You’re not just aiming your project at Western audiences – there is a big emphasis on promoting Kashgar among the cultural community in China ...

MV: The Chinese middle classes are very mobile and keen tourists. The Chinese version of the book has not yet been published but this has now become a priority for us. The Chinese version needs to be published in both Mandarin and Uygur languages – we need to ensure that the Ugyur middle class is also fully aware of the cultural importance of their region.

HK: What is the next major milestone for your Kashgar team?

MV: The next milestone is to secure international funding for our research work. The most important intellectual milestone is to complete the monographs that we have planned on the early Buddhist, Islamic, Shamanistic and other cultural histories and sites of the Kashgar prefecture.

A small section of the Kashgar team is also planning work with the Institute of Archaeology of the Xinjiang government – we have a new book in mind on the mummies of Xinjiang, including a gallery of photographs by John Gollings. Our book proposal is with the Xinjiang government at the moment.

All photos by John Gollings and reproduced from Kashgar: Oasis City on China's Old Silk Road

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About The Author

Lynette Eyb

Last three pieces by this author:

Did Ryszard Kapuściński Follow Herodotus' Example and Make Things Up? | Top 10 Ancient Sites in Syria | People Power Could Signal the End of Uluru Tourist Climb

Lynette Eyb is the books editor of Heritage-Key.com. She trained in Australia as a journalist before moving to London, where she wrote for and edited various magazines. She has travelled extensively, exploring the ancient wonders of China, Turkey, Greece, Egypt, the UK and Ireland along the way. Lyn lives in Bordeaux with her partner and their young daughter.