campus martius

While London's tube had much of its 12 lines and 250 miles of track in place well before the mid 20th century, Rome is still struggling to add its third metro line. The problem is an age-old one: the metro runs deep underground and is deep enough so that the tunnels themselves do not interfere too much with Rome's layers of buried civilisations. The stations and air vents, however, need to come to the surface and, much to the frustration of the construction company, they more often than not strike valuable archaeological areas.

Go to Rome's Piazza Navona on a Saturday night in July and you'll find yourself having to pick your way through the crowds of locals and tourists, some standing in large semi-circles watching a unicyclist juggle with fire or a guitarist play his Led Zeppelin back catalogue, others perusing the displays of gaudy paintings on wooden easels and trying to avoid buying a rose from street sellers. It's one of the main hubs of Roman night life: the area's bars and granita vendors are usually thronged and groups of barefoot college students jostle with each other around Bernini's famous Fountain of the Four Rivers. It's a lively place to take an evening stroll and there is enough people-watching to last several beers at one of the piazza's pricey cafés.