Spotting Synagogues Amongst the Minarets: A Tour of Jewish Istanbul
I am planning a week-long trip to Istanbul with my husband and two young boys for Christmas holidays and the New Year. The main focus of the holiday will be visiting my family who live in Istanbul and catching up with friends. Each time we are back home my French husband gets restless in a family environment with too much Turkish language around him that he understands very little of, and wants to be the sightseeing tourist wondering the streets.
He would rather be watching a belly dancing show in Galata Tower or relaxing in a Turkish Bath - typical tourist things to do. Good thing that Istanbul is such a vibrant city full of cultural and historical things to do so we are not stuck for ideas. Every time I feel like a tour guide who needs to have plans for the next daily tour - and each time I have to come up with better and more creative plans. If I take them to the same place more then once it's a major mistake!
Does it happen to you too: you live in a city, so never treat it like a tourist and fall into the trap of just doing your day-to-day things? I don't live in Istanbul now but did so for 19-20 years and when I go back I never view it in the same way as other city break destinations.
For the past couple of years, having the responsibility of showing my sons my Turkish heritage, I feel more concerned about what they learn and see. I also make sure they feel proud of their fifty percent Turkish blood. So having seen many historical sights so far and visited endless museums and mosques I decided to show them the Jewish Heritage in Istanbul.
The History of Jewish Heritage in Turkey
Over 500 years later the act is still a model of tolerance
Jewish settlements in Turkey go back to the Roman era in the Manisa area with the heavily-destroyed synogogue Sardis. During the Ottaman Empire in 1492 the Jews were expelled from Spain by the Catholic King Ferdinand, and came to Turkey thanks to Sultan Bayezit II, who gave them refuge in the country.
Over 500 years later the act is still a model of tolerance, and one that has led to a vibrant multi-faith community. Modern Turkey is now home to approximately 25,000 jews.
Your Jewish Heritage in Istanbul Tour Starts Now
I will start the tour from Galata Tower which is a Geneoese landmark that can not be missed as it is visible from many parts of Istanbul. It's a great vantage point for breathtaking panoramic views of the Bosphorus and Istanbul, including the Golden Horn and Galata Bridge.
I think every kid would find it fascinating to hear the stories of Hazerfan Ahmet Celebi, who made wings and flew from the Galata tower over to the Bosphorus. The area around Galata used to be a thriving Jewish community around 1500.
Next stop is Neve Shalom Synagoge. Neve Shalom is the largest and most beautiful Sephardic synagogue in the Galata area. You need to make an appointment for a visit by calling them beforehand. Zulfaris Synagogue which is now The Jewish Museum of Turkey is in the area too, and open every day but Saturday from 10am till 4pm. It has impressive decoration inside with great collections of Jewish heritage. As we leave the Galata region do not forget to take a look at Kamondos Staircase, named after a wealthy Jewish family.
Now we head towards Balat which is in the Fatih area, on the western side of the Halic (Golden Horn). This area used to be an important part of the Jewish community, with many synagogues, schools and a hospital. Nowadays only two synagogues remain, as well as Or Ahayim Hospital. Ahrida amd Yanbol synagogues are the remaining sites and both of them need to be contacted before making a visit. Ahrida is one of the oldest synagogues in Istanbul, and built in the Ottaman Baroque style. Watch out for Star of David symbols around the area as you walk through the streets of Fatih: some can still be spotted on the facades of the buildings.
As you wander round the narrow streets of Balat, take time to imagine the centuries of different cultures, religions and people who lived there together as neighbours and friends. Not only Jews but Armenians and Greeks lived in these colourful wooden houses, and walked on these cobblestone pavements. There are still some grocery stores and small businesses owned by Jews and Greeks. Talk to an older person on the street - I am sure they would be more then happy to share their stories with you.
After Fatih, we would like to reach to Ortakoy. The traffic can be awful in this area, so try to get there around 4pm, before the rush hour starts. This is where you can see the rebuilt Etz Ahayim Synagogue which was burnt in 1941.
There is nothing better than the shores of Ortakoy at sunset with a cup of warm tea, in the cold days of December. Looking out over the waves of the Bosphorus, under the lights of Bosphorus Bridge and the Ortakoy mosque, the view is stunning. I am sure after all this walking you would appreaciate the view and some warm tea.
I guess in one day, one can not cover all Jewish Heritage in Istanbul. At the end of my little tour there are still more synagogues left to see, and also the cemeteries at Sisli, Kuzguncuk, Princess Islands, Haydarpasa and Haskoy. But what a great way of seeing different regions of Istanbul from a different view. If you have done this tour and would like to recommend any places please drop me a note: after all I am not a tour guide or a tourist in my own country. I'd love to hear about your travels to Istanbul!
Next: Find out about the Jewish heritage of Egypt, in a unique Heritage Key video.
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Wow, it sounds like you're going to have a FANTASTIC time, Meral! My mother's heritage is also eastern European, and I often hope for the opportunity to learn of the different heritages in my family by visiting the countries and absorbing the culture. This is a fantastic opportunity for your kids, and your husband, and I'm so happy (and jealous!) for you! :) Really looking forward to hearing all about it!
Meral, make sure to take a bunch of photos for me! If you take some good ones, we can see about making a virtual synagogue... Got to love that architecture!
I can not wait either. Two areas are really wonderful Galata and the Balat/Fener area full of opportunities for great photography I will sure bring my camera and take loads this time to share it with you all
Makes me want to go there ... will you be my guide ? Oh and yes, loads of pictures please !!
It sounds fantastic - I love the rich Jewish culture in what many percieve to be an Islamic country (although I think it's actually secular, right?). Anyways, it's a great piece about a city that's undergone more change throughout history than most! Great work, Meral =)
I've been to Istanbul, absolutely love it, and had no idea about all these fantastic Jewish sites - thanks Meral!
Looking forward to hearing how this trip shapes up! I'd love to take my family to Istanbul someday.
It sounds like a fantastic holiday. Like most of the others leaving messages, I didn't know about the Jewish sites or the act of tolerance in 1492. Prad, although Turkey is a secular country, I think the current government wants to make it more Islamic. Meral can correct me if I'm wrong.
The act of tolerance also worked for the Christians. (Or at least some of them.) Besides that the Ottoman Empire was still heavily battling in Europe, and also in Romania. This reminds me to give you the Dracula / The Historian book that I have officially finished. Maybe you can make me an overview of vampire heritage in Turkey then? ;)
Istanbul is definitely a wonderful city, worth to visit and revisit many times! There's history, culture and interesting stories in every corner and the Turks are really welcoming people... always ready to tell us their lives and give us some of their knowledge.
Thank you Susane, I will definetly mention and hoping that this will never happen in my or any other country especially in the current environment. I also do hope that our children with mix backgrounds will be more flexible in their minds and beliefs. I would also recommend to take a look at the www.muze500.com for more information.
Thank you, Meral, enjoy your holidays!
A small correction in my previous comment: "I love Turkey and Istanbul, which is a city that is in my heart and that I'll never forget. I also love Turks and their culture. But if you're making your kids discover the JEWISH Istanbul (or of any other non-Muslim community) you should not forget to tell them about this period. They'll know that this is something that can happen even in a tolerant city and they'll be ready to face it and choose the good side if it happens again."
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